Table de Ruby.
It all started on Christmas day when my aunty plonked on my lap a book that she expressly said I had to read cover to cover. “At my French Table” by Jane Webster is not a small book, but looked appealing with the glossy photos of the ex-pat Australians life in Normandy. I was enthusiastic, as French food has always held an uncomplicated rustic elegance that I find lacking in other food cultures. Needless to say I read the book in only an afternoon and was enthralled by her stories of settling into a small rural village and giant chateau. That night, I dreamed of living in France, making my own Fromage and visiting the Charcuterie. I made some of the recipes in the “summer section” including her Raspberry Tart and the Pommes Charlotte salad. I was not disappointed. I even googled real estate in France to see how much a Chateau runs for.
This begun my love affair with not only French food, but the idea of cooking seasonally to make the most out of the bounty of the season. We buy all our food in plastic at the supermarket with no idea of where it was grown and the correct season it is supposed to grow. Tomatoes for instance are a summer fruit, and therefore the consumption of Fresh Tomatoes in winter goes against nature. In rural France the plate is dictated by the season.
My investigation into home style French cooking lead me to Raymond Blanc. A real Frenchman with many Michelin stars to his credit. “Recipes from Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons” is a triumph to the seasons and cooking seasonally. Apricot Sorbet was on the menu to follow some roasted Fish (snapper) with summer herbs.
Then came “Bouchon” by Thomas Keller. He too believes in cooking simply with seasonal ingredients. His deserts caught my fancy: Almond cake with Strawberries and Rhubarb compote and Napoleon aux Framboises (Raspberry). My favourite however were his profiteroles with Valrhona dark bitter chocolate.
I think that we should all take a leaf out of Frances book and think about food before we open our mouths. Summer especially is abundant with delicious fruit and vegetables asking to be made into something thrilling.
Ruby Z
